by Cristina Rizza
A mix between a Tarantino movie, the 5th avenue and the Texas of the 80s. This is the atmosphere where Lorenzo Serafini drags us for the Philosophy Fall Winter 2018/19 fashion show.
America of the late ’80s lived a continuum of the American dream: a period in which colonization by Europeans had already begun for years, Little Italy was a district in all respects and the children of those who had moved into the new world to make a fortune they were imitating their parents to conquer Hollywood.
A clear remake in Texas sees the use of fringes and rams, overalls that look uniform, made feminine by the flounced shirt that peeps from the neck and sleeves. Unmissable denim, an icon of American fashion that dresses jackets, trousers and suits just like the North America of the late 80s.
The laminated gold fabrics take us back to Madonna‘s Like a Virgin, paired with bon ton shirts full of flounces. Gray flannel trousers, knitted cashmere with lace collar. Soft but important shoulders in prairie silk chiffon dresses worn with cashmere jackets. A black velvet suit over a polka dot top in embroidered tulle with buckle and lace fringes.
Black velvet puff skirt with double-breasted straps. Double breasted tuxedo in smooth lacquered satin or wool flannel in the darkest shades. Blue velvet tulip skirts with printed roses or lacquered satin. Shirts with a light collar on pointed boots with steel heels and high heels.
The famous chiffon dresses by Philosophy blend perfectly with the mood of the collection: mini or maxi, flounces starting from the shoulders or from the waist, in black and white, pink, polka dot wisteria. To inspire this mix of American hedonism and Italian romance, the model Margot Hemingway, iconic model of the 80s, was one of the first to baptize the long-limbed and ethereal beauty coupled with an unregulated personality, as a woman’s ideal of the star system.
