by Giovanna Fusco
“Life in Sardinia is perhaps the best that a man can wish for: twenty-four thousand kilometers of forests, countryside, coastlines immersed in a miraculous sea they should coincide with what I would recommend to the good Lord to give us as Paradise. “(Fabrizio De André)
None of us who has been at least once in this land can blame an undisputed poet of Italian music as De André: even those who do not he had to believe in Paradise going to Sardinia would change his mind, I’m sure! My summer trip started this year with many expectations: I always heard of Sardinian waters, of the transparent sea in which to reflect oneself, of the splendid and suggestive little bays and not only; of the legendary porceddu, of the seadas and of the unmistakable accent. Well, I found all this and more. I chose a relatively quiet and not too busy period, from the end of June to the first week of July; as an area that of San Teodoro, in particular Capo Coda Cavallo. Those who stay here have the idea of finding themselves in another dimension, where they leave the city chaos for a while and establish a real dialogue with nature, through an immediate and profound contact. Capo Coda Cavallo is a symbol of Sardinia: it is a granite promontory located in northern Sardinia, in the Gallura region, rich in greenery, vegetation and animals.
Which beaches do you see in San Teodoro? One of the breathtaking beaches to choose from is Cala Brandinchi, called the Little Thaiti: the nuances of the water ranging from emerald green to turquoise, passing through the blue, would make anyone fall in love with it. Close to the beach there is a pine and a pond, where birdwatchers can admire herons, pink flamingos and knights of Italy. It’s a natural spectacle that captures you from the first moment! A few meters from Cala Brandinchi there is the beach of Salina Bamba, which I initially underestimated because of the weather a little ‘uncertain and instead re-evaluated with the sun: totally changes appearance. It is a large beach surrounded by rocks and lots of vegetation, very popular and frequented by families and singles. In reality even the less appreciated beaches in Sardinia are wonderful; one is often spoiled for choice because of the large number of inlets, coves, distinct from one another but equally suggestive. Among the many Cinta is perhaps among the most famous beaches of San Teodoro: for those like me who loves peace of mind to tell the truth I do not recommend it because, probably for its fame or its extension, it is very popular at any time and it may appear chaotic, but it is surely to be seen at least once in life. From Capo Coda Cavallo it is easily reachable by car in twenty minutes: you arrive at a parking lot adjacent to the beach. La Cinta overlooks the marine area of Punta Coda Cavallo-island of Tavolara: the beach is equipped with all services (information point, beach bar, rental of bathing equipment), with a very white sand and crystal clear water. Another gem of this area is the Lu Impostu beach: it is immediately beyond the promontory of Punta Aldia, which borders the northern boundary of La Cinta. With regard to the origin of the name there are several versions: probably Lu Impostu was a place for trade and boarding goods but today is an unspoilt resort, recommended for those who prefer uncrowded beaches and colorful vegetation. Finally, you can not leave without having seen a cove at least once; I was intrigued by a small naturalistic paradise: the Punta Molara beach, from which it is possible to have a view of the surrounding islands. It is reachable through a path where silence is predominant, where chaos does not exist and where there is deep contact with nature. Once you get there you find yourself in front of such tranquility that you would almost never come home but sleep there, among the rocks and listen to the sound of the sea. Few people, mainly families, a clear sea and the most varied colors: the advice is to bring an underwater mask to see the underwater wonders. For those who love sunbathing there are so many rocks that you will be spoiled for choice on which to lean!
Where to eat in Capo Coda Cavallo and San Teodoro? I have worked hard to visit the most beautiful, characteristic and, why not, beautiful places. Obviously, and I would like to clarify this, Sardinia can in some ways not be very cheap: you know, it is one of the most popular destinations, it lives on tourism and for this reason in summer prices can be particularly high. Not for this you can not eat, indeed, just find the right place. If you are in the Capo Coda Cavallo area I suggest you go to the upper part, to the Blue Bar, a pizza bar with a crazy view, a magical and exciting panorama. From the terrace it is possible to enjoy the view of the Tavolara archipelago and enjoy a revisited spritz of the house, with a taste of the place. Moving from the Blue Bar and going down to the center, a few meters, there is a small pitch on the right from which you can have a full view of the entire Capo Coda Cavallo: I recommend reaching this place, to bring a nice beer, strictly Ichnusa, and drink it at sunset.
Sardinia is not only porceddu but also fish cooked well: doing various research I discovered a restaurant, Il Portolano, in the Porto San Paolo area, half an hour’s drive from Capo Coda Cavallo. It is a very classy restaurant: a view of Tavolara, tables in the garden, and impeccable service. “A romantic dinner in this place can not miss: among the typical dishes to taste are the” maccarrones de punzu with zucchini pesto, fillets of sea bream and almonds “and” the Sardinian fregola with shrimp and lettuce dressing “, the all accompanied by a nice glass of white wine.I must admit they are not low, but it is all inclusive of service, staff coming to the table to make sure everything goes well and the view is spectacular.
You can not leave without being in one of the typical Sardinian farmhouses, those that are not lacking in any other way of saying: this is the real gem in which I came across and that was definitely the best choice I have made. Homemade cooking, meat from your own farm, traditional Sardinian flavors; “Pinnacle” where you can savor the atmosphere of the place in every corner: I’m talking about Agriturismo Li Mori. This is a place where you can not make a stop, in this evocative, almost surreal place, which makes you enter another dimension, where you would like time to stop, to take advantage of every moment slowly. The menu is fixed, for a total of 35 euros per person for adults and 18 euros for children, but we assure you that they are all valid. Hors d’oeuvres (all types of salami: various salami, vegetables in oil, carasau bread with mint and honey flavored ricotta, Gallurese soup, battered zucchini, omelette and rice croquettes, aubergine and Sardinian fregola); first courses (Sardinian gnocchi with meat sauce, lemon ravioli stuffed with ricotta) second (porceddu, the famous and typical Sardinian pig); two desserts and finally coffee and bitter. In short, it will seem to be at a beautiful ceremony!
Which places do you visit near San Teodoro? There are many places to see in Sardinia, but before going on a trip to Porto Cervo you have to do. I have never experienced a great curiosity in visiting this place, probably because a bit ‘annoyed by unbridled luxury, from the latest technology yachts, from restaurants and hotels within reach of rich people. But it is actually an hour away from Capo Coda Cavallo Porto Cervo is the main center of the Costa Smeralda, a holiday resort whose shape resembles that of a deer and whose center is built on a raised ground from the sea. Absolutely worth seeing is the Church of Stella Maris, located on a hill overlooking the entire coast. It was built around the seventies of the twentieth century: you can admire the famous white cone bell tower and a beautiful sculpture by Pinuccio Sciola, dedicated to Pope John Paul II. Porto Cervo also lights up around the legendary little square of chatter, created by the architect Luigi Vietti and full of restaurants, bars, while in the sub-square the streets enlivened by a series of showrooms, boutiques and night clubs. In short, I took some pictures of me, but with the awareness of being just passing through.
This and more is Sardinia: I think you can not not love it, it’s really impossible! The people are warm, kind, I am enchanting places, the food is amazing and the sea is magical. Sometimes we do not really realize Italian jewels and we will go out of Italy in the hope of finding something similar and less expensive: As for the future and spending, it is more likely that it is superfluous shopping, and we focusing instead on the magical places that will remain forever for all and which you can use for free. The material goods pass, the contact with the culture and different worlds remains.