by Gaia Schiavetti
An austere and rigorous collection presented in a location inspired by the Abbey of Aubazine. With the Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020 collection, Virginie Viard continues to tell the story of Chanel starting from Coco’s life and in this case retracing her childhood in the Abbey.
Rules and rhythms are dictated by the alternation of black and white on tweed and wool dresses, the collars are presented in cotton piqué or Bertha version decorated with embroideries reminiscent of elements from the Abbey of Aubazine.
The whole Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020 collection seems to be made by the rigor of the context, the double-breasted coats with paired tweed skirt recall school uniforms and braided belts mark the silhouette.The embroideries already mentioned have the satisfying task of imitating the windows of the abbey by creating games of graphic contours and colors interpreted by opaque sequins in pastel colors. The coats give the looks a formal appearance softened by their length, the collar applied to the tweed coat defines a new silhouette in which elegance is entrusted to a new fashionable version of discretion.
From austerity Chanel’s Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020 collection moves to childish innocence transformed into a more conscious formal elegance: navy blue taffeta dresses accompanied by ivory taffeta capes, tweed skirt accompanied by cropped jacket decorated with embroidered applied like old windows and a cape embroidered with motifs reminiscent of stone flooring.The Bertha collar in cotton piqué is also applied to the black tweed blazer with sequins. A lightness of the past is expressed in the play of transparencies and in the dresses decorated with criss-cross patterns, embellished with embroidery of small flowers, or in pale pink floral lace.
Among the stained glass windows and references to boarding school clothing stand out the references to the flowers of the gardens of the Abbey of Aubazine which in this Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020 collection by Chanel are declined in colorful motifs on a long pleated dress with buttons and on the tulle of embroidered dresses.
For the grand finale of the Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020 collection, walks a georgette crêpe wedding dress with a triple Peter Pan collar in tulle embroidered with wisteria branches parades, which is revolutionary for its short length and its elegant modernity.