by Giorgia Crescia
Andreas Kronthaler for the ninth time alongside Vivienne Westwood, for the creation of a green and innovative collection.
Nine is precisely the title of the Autumn Winter 2020 line; the number also becomes the founding theme of the whole collection which is inspired by the meaning of the number nine, such as universal love, law and spiritual awakening.
According to the designer, the number nine is linked to those who live trying to be a positive example, therefore it has a significant influence on the inspiration and meaning of the collection. Andreas Kronthaler, however, initially claims not to know exactly what he was up against, his real starting point was the search for elegance, a key element.The new collection tries to explain to us that clothes mark the life we live, represent the opportunities we experience; from this point of view, the Stravinsky Spring Festival was very important for inspiration, with its surprising costumes that oppose the dark tones of winter; a need to restore order and bring the earth back to life.
Important to the creation of a green line were the collaborations with Buffalo, for the creation of three recycled nylon and leather models, namely the fireman’s boot, the American-style lace-up work boot and the sneaker, from the V.W. 90s and the reuse of “forgotten” fabrics thanks to the work done with Weste Couture.
Collection 9 is very varied, ranging from bluish colors to patterns combined with other textures, extravagant looks, exaggerated in the sizes, shapes, ingenuity and construction; perfectly related to the style of the brand.
The draperies of the fabrics resting on the bodies combined with rigid bustiers are astonishing, creating a sort of aesthetic oxymoron; very bold transparencies with irregular shapes, in lace or combined with polka dot patterns.
Chilli necklaces, oversized trousers, jackets with exaggeratedly wide shoulders, sweetheart necklines and elegant cut dresses combined with casual shirts.Obviously, there are also eclectic accessories, checked and floral motifs inspired by street art.
A large collection, able to describe the different human experiences, the various choices, the personal forms of elegance and beauty but above all super green. The linings are in fact made of organic cotton, or organic cotton, grown without the aid of harmful chemical agents; the padding is eco-friendly, made of a fiber obtained from the recycling of plastic bottles; use of mulesing free wool and recycled buttons, obtained from the waste of the production of mother of pearl buttons.
Andreas Kronthaler maintains a very coherent style with that of Vivienne Westwood but what stands out further is his commitment to the fight against consumerism, to achieve a better world, greener and respectful of raw materials, a battle that the brand has started a long time does and that leads beautifully forward, while still maintaining a very innovative as well as eclectic style.