by Giorgia Crescia
Vivienne Westwood in the Autumn Winter 2020/21 collection tells us a new story, or rather it tells us more than one; the collection is, in fact, characterized by different stylistic stories, different capsules that mix dramatic hand-drawn graphics, inspired by art, with the English tailoring, definitely more classic, we still find models picked up from the archive and redesigned, with the intent of a perfect balance between classic and modern.
One of the main aspects of the line is the intention to create garments that last, that are timeless. The protagonist of the catwalk is Harris Tweed, which often ties the collections of Vivienne Westwood almost like a red thread. The sustainable Harris Tweed is this time presented in a check variant accompanied by purple flash on tailored garments, it is combined with fabrics such as Herringbone and Wool Basket for outerwear in 100% undyed sheep’s wool.The importance of product sustainability is therefore clear for Vivienne Westwood; the reduction to a minimum of production waste i salso fundamental, through innovative cutting techniques. The fabrics used are sustainable and characterized by recycled buttons.
Street theatre and the carnival are great sources of inspiration for Vivienne Westwood, which are revealed in this line through the graphics, in fact, maxi polka dots, stripes, flames and animal prints can be seen.
The different textures and motifs combine perfectly with the wide range of colors, from the most subtle and elegant to the bold and captivating ones. Everything is combined through games of fabrics and textures that create unique garments.
As usual, the new Autumn Winter 2020/21 collection by Vivienne Westwood also opens up to the variety of combinations and possibilities; tweed trousers halfway between modern and classic, a suit with a double-breasted jacket that emancipates itself through its color, white, but of course also unusual cuts, the union of tweeds of different colors and still a key element for the designer’s collections, which it almost seems to be his signature, the combination of very different reasons. Bold and extravagant unions, strong looks that can be observed.But that is not all. During the presentation, which took place at the Serpentine Gallery in London, guests were able to visit the True Punk exhibition by Vivienne Westwood herself, made a week before the trial against Julian Assange, with the aim of raising public awareness. Through the exhibition and in the same manifesto written by the stylist, freedom of speech is appealed as a human right, established by the same laws which, however, have condemned those who took advantage themselves of this right.
The centre of the exhibition is the installation entitled “WikiLeaxs”, Julian Assange is represented by a broom bush in an uncomfortable and painful position, covered with public insults and protected by the cloak that belonged to John Lilburne, founder of human rights in the seventeenth century, represented, the latter, by a bottle of champagne, symbol of a victory after a battle.
Vivienne Westwood gives us yet another confirmation that fashion is more than just a dress, it is history, it is progress but above all it is rebellion.