by Giorgia Crescia
An original idea, a small existential and essential collection as stated by the designer himself, a model for the future, this is the principle of the new Spring Summer 2021 collection by Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood.
Vivienne herself explained the process by which the shots were made; Andreas Kronthaler photographed everyone in a blank space as they read various poems from different eras, from Shakespeare to Westwood’s own poems such as “Tao means Way”.
The line is rich and varied in shapes and colors, blue animalier knit dresses, recycled fabric nightgown, rainbow effect radzmir evening dress, bone graphic t-shirt, charcoal gray fleece mini skirt and floral boots . Clothes for every occasion, designed before the pandemic.
We find a tight dress in red and white check. The fluttering Union Jack print wraps up strapless dresses, suits and mini skirts. There are still rugby jerseys with padding in the shoulder pads, dresses for tea ceremonies with floral print, khaki linen midi with blue shirts or shirts for dresses, unisex.
The collection is also varied in materials, for example jade green moiré silk on corsets, various wasp dresses in mint green satin, tailored mercerized cotton jersey, décolleté and glittery sandals in floral print cotton and in pink ballerina satin. Obviously all fabrics are recycled, eco, bio, organic and F.S.C.
The sexiest dress in the evening collection is in black cotton jersey.
Andreas Kronthaler has created an interesting line not only from the point of view of shapes, colors and fabrics but also the realization of the photos is interesting, the models have a perfume in their poses, a trail of past eras, various, mixed but that it reveals itself to the observer, who sets off a spark, a memory.
The references to art are interesting, from the drapery of the dresses to the fluorescent print on the Paleolithic Venus sweaters and bodices.
In addition to innovation, we find typical stylist shapes such as asymmetrical cuts, oversized squares and sleeves, and the use of heels and skirts for men as well as sparkling pendants combined with beards and long hair. Like a time lapse of the various eras sprinkled with contemporaneity.