Within the graduate contest involving many of Italy’s fashion academies, the Brera students present their creativity.
Rebalancing is a spring/summer collection inspired from the post war periods. Where stands for the willingness to highlight the concept of returning to a balance. Two master themes about the post war period were highlighted, on one hand the loss of a certain way of living, and the other hand the coming back to this lifestyle.
The research of images is really various as for post war is intended every period that came after every war, from the one of Vietnam, to the First and the Second World War, and so the garments their selvesare really various.
The translation of this concept of rebalancing is to be found in the use of falling, soft and light shapes. Where the “oversize” parts are tighttened through the use of gatherings and coulisses in unsuspectable places.
The colour palette goes from shades of grey-black, to the green, symbol of hope and the violet, symbol of grief, playing with heavy fabrics and transparencies.
The name of this collection is “Silence”, inspired by the works of Morandi and his pastoral life. Using the elements of suits and country style as a contrast of the busy intense urban life, to show from a side of contradiction of my personality, and combine with the relax color and pattern of the works of Morandi and to recreate it through a modern method.
This allows the expression of the desire of back to reality, getting close to nature, away from frenzy city and back to a calm and simple life, and that’s how you bring the peace to your heart.
Cristina Cucinotta & Teresa Cicero
Do not stack
Trough-out a primordial idea, pain, trough allegories, is transformed into shapes recalling life in the subjective and existential condition of the human being. Is this sense is presented the idea of the martyrdom meant as torment but also as fragility of the human being, that in itself finds the ability to overcome everything and react.
From a conceptual point of view is highlighted the delicate balance between positive and negative, which is what pushes people to always reach for good and hope, even when you can get hurt trough the way.
Seishin no Fuan
The Yuki Onna is a kind of yōkai, a traditional japanese supernatural creature. The atmosphere of this autumn-winter collection derives from their spectral and disturbing essence, that is characterized by overlap and special details of japanese kimono: from the way of cut of sleeves to obi (the character of band with knot on waist). The latter was repeat and revisited through the extra heavy sleeves knotted not only to show the part of obi, but also a sense of fear.
Those elements are readapt and changed into streetwear though the extensive shape and technical texture. To commemorate the face of Yuki Onna, which inspired me of the traditional mask which repropose her face, I insected the printing and the way of cut which commemorate her several features.
Also the colors of this collection recall the colors of Yuki Onna: white, mint green, red and black; the latter, color of unknown and fear, is the major color of the collection. The sesations are fortified also by the hanging rings which – the clashing – created a sound disturbed and perturbed.
Bloom at night
The whole collection is bring forth of my curiousity of prostituiton, a comunity of women whose beauty is loved but slighted, who has public body and private heart. By the same time I also inspired by the phrase of Baudelaire: “Qu’est-ce que l’art? L’art est la prostitucion”.
By the combination of the men’s wear of 19th and the traditional costume of geisha, I try to creat a figure who has the characters of both the buyer and the seller in the prostituition at the same time, which means the woman now own the body of herself.
“Transletion” born from a study of strech kimono from the movie “The Memory of a Geisha”, which proposing in a western contemporary context. The shape reminds people of the structure of obi of Tasukikake, which are taken from different types of classic clothes.
The collection is inspired from one of real-must of fashion history: the Sahariana jacket. Making those which are the essential elements of this pockets and shoulder pad born several serial of creative collage, which has brought the form of the new shape apply to different clothes.
Volume and adhesions are the essential key through the collection, which support the strong contrast I’ve created of the combination of texture of classic color and fluo explosion of technical texture which are nylon, shinning leather and pvc.
The collection is inspired from the world of the mental house, made of psychosis and mental illnesses. The loss of control typical of these subjects is the basis of the fill-rouge of the collection. The main element that rrpresent this concept is the eye symbol of the reflection of people’s soul and center of all the mechanisms that happen in a mental house.
The inspiration is translated in the garments trough out the use of embroidery and visual maps created with the fabric.