P.Rew.: Teresa La Fosca Press Office
“His refined and exceptional elegance, the fresh sophistication of his bias cuts, the magnificence of his color palettes. The dreamlike sense of style that subtly delights the senses…there has never been anyone like him.” It is true passion that binds Alessandro De Benedetti to the style of Romeo Gigli, the brand that he has been designing for two season.
In his Fall Winter 2020/21 collection, De Benedetti lives his idea of Romeo Gigli as if it were a technicolor dream, which takes the focal points that make the brand so identifiable, and creates a highly refined, much sought after collection which unfolds before us like a sci-fi hallucination.
An almost lysergic vision where colors take on acid tones (green is the green of a roulette table, blue is highlighter bright and yellow is acid lime) where the decadent romanticism of “that” Romeo is transformed into a techno-symphony of billowing pleats, ruching, and precision tailoring.A 66-piece prêt-à-porter collection with a strong focus on outerwear: coats, jackets, trench coats, chic caban coats with “friar chic” macro hoods, reminiscent of a monk’s habit. Pieces created to last, destined for cult status, such as the draped bodices, the romantic and fluid maxi-dresses, outstanding shirts and nip-waisted blazers: here the façon is fundamental, for example, the “candy pink” suit, an homage to a Romeo Gigli jacket of yesteryear, with its shirt-like sleeves and perfect collar.
And if “he” was known for his high waists, this collection stretches the silhouette, elongating it, as if it were reflected in a warped mirror. Five meters of crêpe cut to create flounced, circular inserts in jackets and pants, which give the effect of aquatic sinuosity, like a floating mermaid.
Of particularly note are the printed silks inspired by a surrealist garden where elegant ladies, influenced by Deborah Turbeville and Salvador Dalì, unwittingly leave lost gloves, draped on rose bushes and flowers.
If Romeo Gigli was innovative for his ethnic touches and tapestry textiles, here we find neon jacquards, a pixelated Byzantine mosaic, the protagonist of the “Oh Romeo” microcapsule collection: a romantic Technicolor dream, for space millennials and street-style lovers who love the semi-couture feel of a reversable megaduvet in moiré and printed nylon.
If the quilted jacket is hi-tech, then the knitwear – hand-knitted and in limited edition – is as sweet and delicious as candy.The Romeo Gigli brand arrived with velvety soft steps, revolutionizing the shape of prêt-à-porter, and the 2020 version is just as avant-garde. A celebrated return to tailoring – De Benedetti’s subtlest weapon, used so successfully at Thierry Mugler and Mila Schön – brings with it experimental fabrics. In conjunction with Italian textile companies, an exclusive, new fabric was created especially for the brand: an extremely soft, rubber-cashmere blend, with strong technical aspects, which can be seen in the absolute modernity of the Java-green trench coat.
The same also applies to the silk and wool moiré, dyed with exceptional new neon pigments, used in the creation of tight-waisted jackets and maxi-duvet coats. A collection with a strong personality, a dream of surreal, sartorial beauty.