Gentile Catone‘s Fall Winter 2022/23 collection is the story of a seam, of a palpable membrane between excess of life and winter of the senses. It is the story of frail balances, of anodyne suspensions, to plunge into the shipwreck of torment. Between desire and repression, between being and duty, between love and truth.
“The soul surrounds itself with wild hedges of love: dying is this covering itself with brambles born in us”
A clear, icastic image, symbol of the collection: branches with gnarled voluptuousness, bristling with thorns, overflowing with blackberries and chalices of flowers are the free interpretation of these lines taken from a poem by Antonia Pozzi.
Everyone sooner or later feels his own irreconcilability with reality and experiences the malaise of this irrepressible screech, wrapped in the sensual and asphyxiated embrace of his own cloak of thorns. The desire for identity, the longing for authenticity can break the brambles, but it is not easy to see the passage in the twisted tangle of evanescent loves and arid illusions.
Gentile Cato investigates this inner laceration, this irreducible tension between the aspiration to happiness and the guilt of the ego. This inner conflict in search of one’s own happiness is expressed in Gentile Catone prints through a sensual, fluid and sprawling nature, in three monochromes with a strong visual impact, green, pink and black.
Contrasting to create a dialectic fall / redemption, imprisonment / freedom, flowers with a large corolla and pastel tones, which stand out bright against a misty background of stars. In the wake of this rise to authenticity, “Moonlight” is the name chosen for the signature print of the brand, this season inspired by a dreamlike night on the streets of Tokyo, between neon lights and small epiphanies of happiness.
Eco-sustainable fabrics in silk twill and satin and in viscose crepe and cady are chosen for regular-cut shirts and other more delicate ones, with ruffles and ruffles. Dresses and skirts in viscose and winter cotton gabardine alternate a slim silhouette with wider shapes, with pleats and curls, while the bon ton setting coats are made of tartan wool and mohair in pastel shades. Bodysuit in lace and Swarovski fringes give a bold and girlish twist to the romanticism of the collection.