Alessandro De Benedetti ‘syn’ a performative sartorial collection with obscure-retro veins created in collaboration with Lineapelle
Syn, the collection characterised by a mysterious allure and a touch of eccentric tailoring that marks Alessandro De Benedetti‘s return to his origins, is transformed into a Défilé d’Intrigues at Milan Fashion Week.
The creative spark of the Syn Fall Winter 2023/24 collection starts from two visual memories: the cult movie Histoire d’O, still famous today for its impertinent and iconic sensuality, combined with the emotional suggestions born from Carlo Mollino’s artistic polaroids, murky, bewitching, suggestive.
Alessandro De Benedetti thus creates his personal remake through a wardrobe with a very sophisticated flavour, erotic precisely because it is austere.
Pure, perfect and innocent materials such as crêpe de Chine, silk ponginette and double wool crêpe combine with rouge noir aniline leather and light cognac leather, distinguished by the ‘full hand’ finish created in collaboration with the prestigious ‘Laser Fashion’ tannery in Solofra. Classic houndstooth and tartan are reinvented with inlay work or coupled with techno-nylon and enzyme satin.
Asymmetrical cascades of ice-coloured ruffles and jade-green bias draping define some of the 45 demi-couture designs. Many dresses have hidden slits or reveal slits of nudity in unexpected places on the body, such as along the back of the voluptuous hyper-constructed suit in rouge noir leather, adorned with thin leather laces, or in the little mermaid sheath dresses with a macro bustier effect weave, with Victorian sleeves in silk velvet.
The recurring flesh-coloured colour is declined in small washed chiffon blouses with macro rouge, supported by imperceptible wefts of silver threads, or in the printed satin shade that at first glance appears animalier, but instead reveals a blood-red heart pattern (a symbolic reference to the passion of Corinne Cléry, who plays the O in the film, for her icy lover). Tinged with ruby are the leather dress with draping and crater collar and the short biker jacket that can be divided into a waistcoat.
The expression of the fabric falling in bias is repeated in almost all the models: sometimes twisted in on itself, as in the Madonna blue dress in enzyme crêpe de chine, other times in swirling sleeves gathered in the rouge noir leather gloves, or in the dresses printed with a pattern of knots halfway between the refined shibari creations of Nobuyoshi Araki’s photos and the most classic of designs.
Leather tails detach themselves from black and cognac houndstooth skirts. A woman’s eye scrutinises, through an unexpected hat, a tailored suit with a jacket with inner plastron and men’s trousers, an inlay that creates silhouettes of darkness in leather and proportions that seem to come out of the shadows.
Completing the look of the collection is the erotic and rigorous cape with a corset opening along the back, in silk velvet or wool tartan coupled with the seduction of an ice-coloured silk satin, in a rigorous double-face process.
All this came to life in a dichotomy of nature and industrial touch that characterised the designer’s two events during Fashion Week. The first in Piazza Tomasi di Lampedusa and more precisely “in that rectangle made of glass, walls covered in cognac leather and graffito cement, brass borders and mirrors”, which the Spazio Lineapelle represents.
The second in a metaphysical place, characterised by sensual and cinematographic suggestions: the garden enclosed once again by glass windows at the Centro Servizi Fiera Milano Rho, where the models walked the runway, creating surreal atmospheres.
P.Rew: Studio Re Press Office