The Gianluca Saitto Fall Winter 2024/25 collection
And it is precisely the painter’s lively colourism and expressive exuberance that informs Gianluca Saitto‘s Fall Winter 2024/25 wardrobe, starting with the colour palette that stands out for its vivid contrasts, similar to those between the background and the figures in Lempicka’s paintings, alternating intense shades of red, green, light blue and blue (from teal to crimson, from navy to blueette) and soft nuances such as white or pearl grey.
The season’s prints also recall the sophisticated world of her most famous paintings, reworking their details which, expanded in size, are transferred onto the surfaces of the clothes.
The attitude, the unrestrained vitalism of the protagonists of the Roaring Twenties is echoed in the transversality of the proposals: daily garments with clean and essential cuts (enriched, however, by the elaborate embroideries that represent the brand’s stylistic hallmark) coexist harmoniously with long dresses, caftans, overcoats and grand evening outfits, lit up by the sparkle of sequins, rhinestones and spots of light that stud and enhance the sculptural lines of the outfits.
The dichotomy between sexyness and androgynous elegance is happily resolved in a calibrated mix whereby the vexatiousness of ruffles, see-through veils, stilettos worn with thick contrasting stockings and crystals is accompanied by the rigorous tailoring of mannish pieces such as blazers, wrap-around coats and waistcoats in different volumes and materials
. A subtle tension between opposites also vibrates in the silhouettes, now swathing, ultra-feminine, now slouching to caress the figure. There is a wide variety of materials: embroidered fabrics, the unmistakable signature of the brand, are flanked by jersey with a 3D effect, the full-bodied textures of tweed, declined in shades of ultramarine blue or grey, those of worked lurex and jacquard.
The cuts, precise to the millimetre, confirm the maison’s penchant for clean-cut volumes, sculpted by hemlines, shaped edges, asymmetries and structured constructions that make coats, jackets and suits easily recognisable.
Further emphasising the shapes are the colour choices, be it the contrasting piping that frames the collar of a jacket or the brightness of the embroidery that runs through evening gowns. Checks, transparencies, necklines reinforce the decisive, elegantly sensual character of one-of-a-kind creations, daring and refined in equal measure.
After all, Glyn wrote about the desire to possess the coveted ‘it’ factor, “a woman has it when she shows an irresistible magnetism, in her own unconventional way”; a desire reversed, and sublimated, by the new collection designed by Gianluca Saitto.
Inspiration
Colour, geometricism, formal and material research, energy, dynamism, sex appeal… These are some of the keywords that characterise Gianluca Saitto’s Autumn Winter 2024/25 collection, devoted to eclecticism and a reasoned and conscious vision of sensuality, with a clear artsy theme. The couturier’s new proposal takes its cue from an all-round reflection on contemporary femininity, on what guides and orients women’s choices today in the multiple spheres of their lives, clothing in primis.
The reference horizon, for the maison, has precise space-time coordinates, those of the Roaring Twenties, as they were nicknamed at the time: an ideal bridge therefore unites Europe and the United States, the winking eroticism of the Surrealist masters and the auteur nudes of the Atelier Manassé of Olga Spolarits and Adorjan Wlassics, the propelling centre, in the Vienna of Secessionism, of an outré, eccentric, experimental photography, which proves to be the best ally of female emancipation, attracting the elite of European society.
On both sides of the pond, an explosive blend of the sacred and the profane, joie de vivre and poignant melancholy, the ancient and the modern, is imposed; it is appropriated by flappers, uninhibited girls who mock the asphyxiating conformism of a profoundly patriarchal society with disruptive energy: They danced the Charleston, smoked, drove, posed and dressed à la garçonne, favouring short hair and androgynous looks punctuated by glittering accessories, literally, including sequins, fringes and jangling necklaces.
They are the personification of “that certain something”, of the “quality, possessed by some, that attracts everyone with a magnetic force” of which the writer Elinor Glyn speaks in her book “It” and Other Stories, and which is admirably transposed on canvas, in portraits with bright nuances, by Tamara de Lempicka, the greatest interpreter of the luxurious, worldly and carefree atmosphere that dominates, until the 1930s, the upper-class and aristocratic milieu of the old continent.
The collaboration with the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum
On the occasion of Milano Moda Donna, the new collection was presented in the rooms of the Museum through a path of clothes and inspirations designed with the support of Moitié Studio, an architecture and interior design studio founded in Milan in 2019 by Francesco Gennaro and Giorgia Rossi. “In the main room of the Museum, the visitor is transformed into a spectator of a scenario composed of a series of mannequins arranged in a linear fashion, evoking works of art, amplified by the effect of theatrical lighting.
For the display of the collection, chrome-plated steel hangers were selected, a reflective material almost destined to disappear in order to emphasise the clothes, the real protagonists of the installation.
The event also featured a special tasting organised by the Vetrère winery from Salento, a winery that goes far beyond the production of wines, but is an authentic presidium and ambassador of the region. A history now in its 5th generation, the Vetrère’s philosophy is always looking ahead, promoting cutting-edge tools and methods: a focus on innovation that allows the organoleptic properties of the products to be preserved intact, while preserving the profound identity of this historic company.
Gianluca Saitto
Born in 1984, he studied Architecture and Fashion Design at the University of Florence. In 2009, Gianluca Saitto, urged on by his friend and exceptional patroness, former top model Benedetta Barzini, opened his atelier in Brera, the district that symbolises Milanese art and elegance.
As a designer, he immediately set himself the objective of (re)focusing on the rituals, times and peculiarities of fashion, scrupulously adhering to the dictates of the best Italian sartorial tradition and elevating embroidery, which he created himself, to the distinctive feature of a sophisticated and timeless style.
Geometries, constructions with a sculptural side and solutions typical of haute couture, a measured yet powerful sensuality, played out on openings, necklines and see-through effects: these are the cornerstones of Gianluca Saitto’s creations, which celebrate the idea of refined femininity, the sine qua non of the brand, working on a bodycon silhouette defined by slippery volumes and ethereal, almost liquid textures, aimed at enhancing the physicality and character of his glam rock woman.
P.Rewt.: Negri firman PR & Communication
