Nine are the collections created by the students of the Fashion Design Course of the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera, encouraged in their concepts to show their individuality, and their creative and practical skills in realising and expressing their ideas.
The collections present all those topical issues the new generation is confronted with every day: leaving the judgement of a society that too often demands an idealised perfection, which is here cancelled for a more intimate research of what identity is and why it is so important, without stopping at the mere appearance of things. Moreover, the oblivion is considered as an absolute absence of information in contrast with the memory and the game. Finally, the desire to travel again and create those connections that create a new taste, the gender fluid taste.
A journey, a vision, inside and outside of us that speaks of “Eyes on me”, looks and attention to unusual, foreign gestures and ways for those who are ready to break with the past.
A journey also made of memory, memories of distant countries such as Brazil, the reference year “99” is the title of the collection, with images, glitches and klecksographies. Modernity arises from the contrast, technical-natural, memory-oblivion, missing parts of a dress like erased from our mind, “Ricordati di me“. The awareness therefore of seeking our identity and its value, in “Identity loss” beyond the market and its needs. A fluid identity, in “The Anglesey’s legacy”, a legacy of the investigation between Cyril Paget and Leigh Bowery, as in an interaction in “Synapse” that generates a thought of hybridization between genres.
A metamorphic modification into “Anomalia”, disharmonies and alterations that personalize our aesthetic choices. Opposite languages in “Contemporary Nomads, different pulses”, which come together to create a new one. “Encounters between different worlds”, from large spaces to mines where a special knot transforms a work suit into an urban suit.
“Eyes on me” was born from an in-depth study of my personality. An Apulian boy who arrives in the great Milan because he no longer wants to be judged by society. Because society looks at you, judges you and hurts you through looks, leaving you with gashes on the armor you created.
Di Serio Cristian
“The collection takes inspiration from the coal miners’ work uniform.The characterizing detail of the entire collection is the knot of their foulard. The knot has been inserted inside the collection transforming the clothes from work uniform to garments with an urban style.”
The collection was born from the desire to return to travel after this period of forced mobility; to get to know, be amazed and contaminated. A journey that goes from the desert to the city whose goal is to give birth to a new language.
Identity Loss project was born from a reflection on the consumeristic outcomes that machines generated and how the process of making fashion has been influenced by mechanization. The industry moved more and more the focus of fashion, from constructing and narrating the identity of the designer to trying to make the best profit out of it. Identity Loss aims to research a utopic new world of fashion where the economy isn’t the main focus. The collection encourages us to reflect on what identity is and why is it so important.
Anomaly takes from the idea of alternation, deformity, distortion of the human body. Minidresses, structured jackets and overalls with a bulky effect, halding of velvet fabric invade the vital fields of sleeves and prints with strong kaleidoscope graphics interact with soft color velvets. The spasmodic search for an idealized perfection canceled. The disharmonies, the small imperfections give the way of access to everyone’s intimacy of each one, recept with empathy, exorcised and exalted.
The theme I have chosen for my collection this year is the social constructs in clothing, seen through the stories two figures: Henry Cyril Paget, V Marquis of Anglesey and the Australian artist Leigh Bovery. They perfectly embody my belief that clothes are genderless and that we should not dwell on the mere appearance of things.
This collection is based on the concept of “synapse”, a link between the cells of the nervous system; I used it to figuratively represent a connection between two genders, introducing a new taste of gender fluidity.
99 is a women’s collection inspired by memory and play; was born from a series of photographs taken in Brazil that year. Recurring elements in the collection is the glitch or the digital error and the klecksographies.
The name of my collection is “Remember Me”; the concept is oblivion. Oblivion is the absolute forgetfulness of information and this is translated into my project with the removal of a part of the garment. Technical fabrics are combined with woolen cloth as cold colors with warm colors.