Sculpting the body with the beauty of workmanship that caresses its lines and designs a precious aesthetic that has its heart in Gaetano Navarra‘s DNA, knitwear.
It is pure art that makes an overbearing comeback in the designer’s Fall Winter 2024/25 collection, playing with the acrobatics of knitwear to bring together antipodal inspirations and give life to a virtuoso and captivating pret à porter.
It is the ’90s, with the exaggerated shapes of outerwear, a taste for mini-lengths, kimono sleeves on slit silhouettes, that meet with the irreverent déco of the ’20s in which embroidery is the absolute star among viscose fringes and black jais, feather inserts and mischievous lace.
The result is micro-dresses, tight-fitting and second skin, with their ton sur ton embroidery, with their cascading fringes, with that brilliant divertissement that emphasises their proportions.
And again, asymmetric dresses with maxi inlay holes similar to netting, in merino wool, which uncover portions of skin; the same skin which proudly returns to show itself from the crop lengths of the sweaters, from the one shoulder blouses, from the ribbed dresses with knitted strips with a bondage effect which, as they cross each other, wrap around the body and become similar to long tails.
Space for gold lurex for the wide coats similar to the capes of the last century and for the inserts of the sinuous mini-dresses with the shoulders in the foreground.
And then a fascination with the Orient in a pop key – with an eye on David Bowie – for the multicoloured fan lines of the two-piece and the micro dress in carded wool.
There is always a taste for asymmetry, for the unfinished, for a story that follows the vicissitudes of hand-made knitwear – braid, English rib and rib -, often in dialogue with textures.
These are gauzed mohair, viscose and lurex, also with a fur effect, cordonetto merinos wool; and again organza, sequins, rat-tail and metal chain inserts.
The palette is essential: black above all, then the burgundy of 1920s theatre curtains, the cheeky gold.
P.Rew.: Guitar Press Office