by Giovanna Fusco
Sensibility, purity, scenic beauty: Procida is this and much more. Before I saw it I was not particularly attracted to this island, perhaps because it was not publicized, perhaps because I did not know it enough or perhaps because I simply had not visited it, as it often happens. Still, it completely overwhelmed me.
Every year, for a while, at the beginning of June, I take two days of relaxation. After Capri, this year I chose Procida. You can visit it and enjoy its beauty even for a weekend: I will try, as always, to provide some ideas, I hope useful, with the pleasure of sharing with those who read my feelings. If Capri stuns you and Ischia involves you, Procida makes you think. Arrived on the Port, the island does not kidnap you immediately: it has a beauty that overwhelms you slowly, slowly. It has some enchanting and suggestive places; it is an island of great sensitivity and real purity. It is no coincidence that it has hosted world famous actors and has been the seat of many films: from Graziella, (1955), to Cleopatra, (1963), to Francesca e Nunziata with Sophia Loren (2002), to Il Postino, a famous film in 1995 with Massimo Troisi and perhaps among those that most reflect the charm of the island. For those who have never heard of it I highly recommend seeing it at least once, as the last interpretation of Troisi, who died in the sleep a few hours after the end of filming and inspired by Il postino di Neruda, a novel written by the Chilean Antonio Skármeta. The shooting, which lasted eleven weeks, began in the fall of 1993 in Pantelleria and ended in Procida (Pozzo Vecchio and Marina di Corricella) with a quality cast that included, together with the Neapolitan actor, Philippe Noiret and Maria Grazia Cucinotta. I quote this last film because Procida is a deeply intimate island, as it is intimist and deep “Il Postino”; has the ability to start an inner dialogue, playing on the tones of the story about themselves.
Where to stay in Procida? For the occasion I chose the Hotel Savoia, which is a 13-minute walk from the Chiaia beach and 2 km from the ferry terminal. The rooms, all made with majolica, are spacious and comfortable. The strong point of the hotel is certainly the large garden inside, with swimming pool and lemon trees, perfect for relaxing in the morning or even in the evening. It is central and convenient, but for those who do not want to walk or take a bus, I suggest you contact the taxi service. I was lucky enough to meet Raimondo, a kind taxi driver, always on time, available at any time. Will be able to show you the most characteristic places to visit, with some ideas that only a procidano can give you, even on restaurants where to eat excellent fish in the wake of the best tradition of the island. You can ask for him as soon as you arrive at the information point.
Having only two days available, Saturday and Sunday, the Chiaiolella fell immediately to the sea, on one of the most popular beaches during the summer season. This is certainly among the most crowded, thanks to the organization set up by the managers of the beaches and at sunset, on the coast, it is ideal for a romantic walk. In the evening you really have the embarrassment on the restaurant to choose from. Moving towards La Corricella you can find restaurants everywhere and all excellent. Unlike what you think the prices are not very high and accessible to anyone: for those who love pizza I recommend the pizzeria Fuego, with tables overlooking the sea and with a list of really different proposals, from classic to gourmet pizzas . For those who want to eat good fish instead there is no problem: every restaurant you meet on your way will have something typical to offer. In my case I chose La Lampara, a family-run restaurant with a fantastic terrace overlooking the gulf. The kindness of the staff, the fresh fish and the special dishes make it an excellent destination for those who want to eat in a charming atmosphere with the lights of the village of fishermen that makes any evening enchanting. Absolutely to try the pasta with mussels, beans and pesto, tuna tartare or octopus with Lampara, ravioli filled with crustaceans with cream of courgettes and, second, tuna with pistachios. A nice walk in the moonlight, with the sound of the waves in the background and you are ready to face the next day.
On Sunday, after a nice breakfast, included in the offer of the hotel, I head to Terra Murata, the oldest and highest place on the island, a fortress that extends to 91 m overhanging the sea. From here you can admire, besides the Corricella from above, also the Royal Palace (former penal bath), the Convent of S.Margherita Nuova, Piazza Guarracino and the Abbey of San Michele, which houses numerous works of art. Going down you can not get into the alleys and get carried away by the colors of Casale Vascello, an ancient fortified village located at the foot of Terra Murata and the first residential nucleus formed when the spread of Saracen invasions favored the displacement of the population to new areas of the ‘island. To access this eighteenth-century complex there are two different entrances: one in via Principe Margherita and the other in Via Salita Castello, from which probably derives its original name “smashed vessel”. In this regard, there are other hypotheses: many think that the name comes from the dialectal expression “vescieddo” or “re vescio”, which means “down”, just as evidence of downward decentralization of housing. Anyone who passes through here experiences the sensation of silence and peace that evoke a unique atmosphere, as if you were in another era and time had stopped.
From this point, you can easily be guided by the typical Procidani colors, the little houses from which the clothes hang, the characteristic tiles hanging in front of the gates with the proverbs of the place and so, without even noticing, you find yourself in equally magical places, such as La Piazzetta, with the belvedere on Terra Murata and Corricella. I suggest everyone to stop to drink a granita or simply sit on a wall to fully enjoy the beauty. It was not by chance that “Il talento di Mr. Ripley” film, directed by Anthony Minghella, was shot here with world-famous actors such as Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow, Stefania Rocca, Fiorello and many others. Continuing to walk you go down again to Corricella: here, immediately after enjoying a pizza or a nice fish dish, you can stop and enjoy a citrus sorbet at the Chiaro di Luna ice cream parlor.
If you want to disconnect from everyday life, surely Procida is one of the most suitable places for silent dialogue with nature, the intoxicating scent of lemon and the calm waters of its many gulfs. It has lovely places and a view that few islands can offer, with spectacular restaurants and bars on the sea.
One thing that struck me most of the others is the fact that there are no shopping streets, such as in Capri, and this makes it clear how it is outside the commercial logic and how it has not yielded to the widespread call of marketing; you will find only small shops where you can buy gadgets and magnets. In short, it really seems to go back in time and enjoy the evocative, almost dreamlike atmosphere that only an island of the soul like Procida can offer, a land of fishermen and humble people, complex and mysterious but fascinating in the authentic defense of the own identity. www.comune.procida.na.it
