by Gaia Schiavetti
Guests received at home a box of markers signed Moschino: a clue or a creative idea? Maybe Jeremy Scott wanted to ask us help to finish his collection for Spring Summer 2019!!!
The creative director of Moschino has in fact presented on the catwalk … unfinished clothes! Jackets, suits and hats colored with Pantone markers as in an artistic sketch, a draft with an eccentric but refined style. Evening dresses are still attached to the cardboard tube on which the fabric is rolled which becomes part of the train or a drapery. The fiction of the unfinished collection expresses in a light and joking way the chaos of our days, the impossible times of fashion and the laws to which creativity must submit to. A protest or a marketing strategy?
Maybe both of them, packaged in the wonderful irreverent aura typical of the maison and that we always loved. Jewels and accessories respect the mood and the “hurry” of the Spring Summer 2019 collection with necklaces that seem to be hand-drawn, the hats stained with color and the real protagonists: transparent tights with black doodles, elegant and cheeky. Jeremy Scott focuses his new collection for Moschino on pretty bon ton and elegant women’s dresses accompanied by sophisticated hats and a rather slim silhouette, a stylish version of the business woman who carries with her classy handbags. Wearing blouses with bows on the neck to give volume to a tailoring that changes its shape but remains fit and clean.
The not completely colored PVC makes outrageous and underground some outfits, allowing us to see the lower part of bodysuit printed with the iconic bear. Even the polka dot dresses are drawn with the round tip of a felt-tip pen and Jeremy Scott had to leave in half the dress on which he was drawing the animalier pattern. The striped patterns are more complete, but they also show a messy style with overlapping colors to confirm the illusory conception that clothes are sketches.
The atelier becomes a brainstorming table, the golden needles that fall on the ground are assembled to form a sparkling dress accompanied on the catwalk by a maxi thimble that becomes an evening hat. The scissors left on the work table become a long evening dress, the empty mannequin turns into a jumpsuit decorated with an oversized tailoring tape.
The show ends with a wedding dress that looks like a cloud, the skirt is a balloon that incorporates the full-bodied veil that expresses its infinite movement in a dance of colorful butterflies brought to the catwalk by dark shadows.
