Back in Milan to present her Spring Summer 2020 collection is Bogotá designer Laura Aparicio, whose collections combine Made in Colombia creativity – steering clear of the usual clichés – with full Made in Italy.
2019 was the brand’s year zero, debuting in February with its inclusion in the official MFW programme, entrusting production to Studiopuntozero/Gianni Serra and distribution to Spazio 38.
For the new season, the designer retraces the steps of her own personal history, in a travel itinerary that initially takes us to a new Colombia, made up of a generation – her own – of cultured globetrotters, who are more than capable of mixing native beats with European ones. Flying across the Atlantic, the destination as ever is Milan, with that unique taste for which it is renowned.
Laura Aparicio also pays tribute to the city that is her adopted home and place of training with her choice of a very special location: the Sala Mengoni at Cracco restaurant. Just a stone’s throw away from the dome of the Galleria.
Asymmetric dresses, contrasting inserts, panels and drawstrings expand the volumes and allow for play with silhouette and fit.
Bomber jackets and culottes, safari jackets and pencil skirts with three-dimensional applied pockets, tops, fit and flare dresses, and light blouses, make up a collection of key day-to-night pieces, impeccably made and with a strong cosmopolitan feel.Overall, the hallmark of Aparicio’s style is still tailoring whose classical approach is tempered by the modernity of metal accessories.
The entire collection revolves around the soft line of the orchid, the national flower, but is not in the least ethnic. Jaime Aparicio, Laura’s artist father, has encapsulated its graphic profile in a pure line that stiffens into pinstripes, made by multiplying simple modules in two dimensions.
Purity of fabric and knits: 100% silk and cotton coexist with mixtures of fringes, checks and masculine classics. The use of fishnet re-imagined in ultra-luxe threads, whether simple or contrast lined, epitomises the chic game of seduction in its teasing effect, in a perfect dialogue with the austere cuts.
References to Colombian art, to craftsmanship, and to nature – almost unrecognisable, intellectual without being didactic – are transformed into design details. Sashes tighten into geometric belts that emphasise the waist, traditional interior decor tassels lengthen in the flowing dresses in unusual camouflage, and lucky native pregnancy ribbons gather sleeves and necklines.
Vegetable ivory and flashes of metal. The new bijoux of the large family collection are juxtaposed with necklaces and bracelets in Tagua nut. The Seed mini bag in woven corn fibre completes the outfits.
The shades of the colour palette alternate in the prints and in anything that is not plain. Nautical classics of navy blue, red, white and bright yellow are softened by light blue, grey and touches of olive green.