by Giorgia Crescia
A great quote and inspiration gave life to the new Autumn Winter 2021/22 collection by Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood entitled “Mayfair Lady”.
My Fair Lady from George Bernard Shaw’s play “Pygmalion”, is a play whose plot revolves around a female figure named Eliza, a commoner with a Cockney accent, who is transformed into an it-girl of the high society from Higgins; it is this woman and her strong character that the inspiration for the new Autumn Winter 2021/22 “Myfair Lady” line comes from, but also from the elegance of the English gentleman represented in the case of this work by Mr. Higgins.The garments show an effective reference to the play, rouches and corsets which, even if revisited, transport us to the world of the protagonist Eliza; however, there is no lack of classic characters that distinguish the brand such as oversized jackets, plaid prints and high plateaus with thick heels, exaggerated collars and sleeves, striped stockings and transparencies but also asymmetrical cuts and above all unions of different motifs.
In the new collection you can admire long coats combined with matching shorts, socks with sandals, sneakers, coordinated with motifs and belts with bands. In the line there is also a fantastic dress with oversized checked shoulders, tight corset that wraps the whole bust from under the bust to end in a longuette, the oppositions of wide and narrow are linked by the same motif of which the whole dress is constituted.
Another highlight are the high leopard-print boots, important and flashy, with exaggerated plateau and heel, proposed in more than one look. There are also sharp cuts that open some of the garments on one side of the bust.
Vivienne Westwood herself, as always, took part in the photos wearing the new garments of the line. The rhombuses are back on cardigans and socks, checked miniskirts together with leather skirts worn by men.
Many textures and motifs used on each other, which are now a hallmark of the brand, the references to the play are not all direct but certainly act as a common thread of the line; shapes and style are taken up and renewed in a perfect union, obviously rich in extravagance and madness.
The new “Myfair Lady” collection by Andreas Kronthaler takes inspiration from a well-known plot in the world panorama, also thanks to the cinematic reworking that made it even more famous but at the same time offers a personal vision, almost as if to rewrite a new makeover through another art, that of creation and sewing; and it is here that once again the protagonist Eliza sees her transformation once again, through this collection.